Thermostat/header connections.
Saturday, 31 January 2009
Sunday, 25 January 2009
Yesterday I had my first run out with the new engine. Nothing spectacular as the roads were damp in places and it was very cold. Went down to see a fellow MNR builder who is getting ready for SVA.
I've bought an Innovate LC 1 lambda kit so I can have a go at tuning the carbs for their new application. So, I need the lambda boss welding into the exhaust..... paid a visit to AAS Exhausts in Newcastle to see about getting that welded in and a couple of other tidy ups on the exhaust, welding two joints, nice hanger etc... Anyway to cut a long story short, and explaining I wanted 200bhp from the motor I've booked the car in for whole new exhaust system with much bigger pipes throughout. I hadn't planned this atm but knew it needed doing so I'm in for it just need a hefty cash injection....
Got back home in the dark with no drama's apart from a concern with the coolant. I'm not convinced I'm getting the correct reading from the temp gauge, and its chucking coolant out when its cold. I suspect this is due to the header tank connection being very close to the bypass output of the thermostat housing. I'm going to move the header tank connection down to the bottom hose close to the radiator to try and smooth out any surges that may be the cause of the coolant being expelled.
Immediate plans are to cure once and for all the brake fluid leak that's been a constant problem with new master cylinders with integral reservoirs, move the header tank connection and get the exhaust done. Then I can think about cams to get up to 200bhp. And I still need to make a new inlet manifold.
I've bought an Innovate LC 1 lambda kit so I can have a go at tuning the carbs for their new application. So, I need the lambda boss welding into the exhaust..... paid a visit to AAS Exhausts in Newcastle to see about getting that welded in and a couple of other tidy ups on the exhaust, welding two joints, nice hanger etc... Anyway to cut a long story short, and explaining I wanted 200bhp from the motor I've booked the car in for whole new exhaust system with much bigger pipes throughout. I hadn't planned this atm but knew it needed doing so I'm in for it just need a hefty cash injection....
Got back home in the dark with no drama's apart from a concern with the coolant. I'm not convinced I'm getting the correct reading from the temp gauge, and its chucking coolant out when its cold. I suspect this is due to the header tank connection being very close to the bypass output of the thermostat housing. I'm going to move the header tank connection down to the bottom hose close to the radiator to try and smooth out any surges that may be the cause of the coolant being expelled.
Immediate plans are to cure once and for all the brake fluid leak that's been a constant problem with new master cylinders with integral reservoirs, move the header tank connection and get the exhaust done. Then I can think about cams to get up to 200bhp. And I still need to make a new inlet manifold.
Roll on the warm weather!
Sunday, 18 January 2009
Got my hands on some 5mm steel plate. I've decided to make a new inlet manifold. Seeing as I made the original one I can save a bit of cash making this one too. I've got the Ford Plastic one to use as a template and it should be easier this time as the ports on the head are larger. I wont have to reduce the tubes to make them fit!
I've swapped the thermostat housing for the one of the 1.8. This is because the newer ST one has temp senders that are push in and held with sliding clips, where as the 1.8 one has threaded sensor holes. This has enabled me to fit the Acewell sensor to the bottom of the unit. I started the engine again for another warm up/leak test and while the fan came on as it does at 86 degrees the dash was only registering 55... This may be due to the sensor sitting on the bottom of the thermostat. The problem is I've blocked the rear outlet that would have gone to the heater so there's not much flow over it. However this may or may not be problem during normal driving when the water is going round a lot faster. Time will tell. I have a mechanical Racetech water temp gauge I may attempt to plumb into the top sensor.
Congratulations to Vinny, Bill & Basset for getting their cars started today. You can check their blogs out with the links on the right..
I've swapped the thermostat housing for the one of the 1.8. This is because the newer ST one has temp senders that are push in and held with sliding clips, where as the 1.8 one has threaded sensor holes. This has enabled me to fit the Acewell sensor to the bottom of the unit. I started the engine again for another warm up/leak test and while the fan came on as it does at 86 degrees the dash was only registering 55... This may be due to the sensor sitting on the bottom of the thermostat. The problem is I've blocked the rear outlet that would have gone to the heater so there's not much flow over it. However this may or may not be problem during normal driving when the water is going round a lot faster. Time will tell. I have a mechanical Racetech water temp gauge I may attempt to plumb into the top sensor.
Congratulations to Vinny, Bill & Basset for getting their cars started today. You can check their blogs out with the links on the right..
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